Pool Leaks

Bring the pool water to its normal level.

Fill an empty bucket with pool water to about one inch from the top of bucket.
(By filling the bucket close to the top you are ensuring that air movement over the surface of the bucket will similar to that of the pool.)

Place the bucket on the first or second step of the pool. To keep it from floating away it may be necessary to place a few bricks or rocks into the bucket.
(By placing the bucket in the pool water you are ensuring that the water temperature of each will be similar).

Mark the water level inside the bucket.

Mark the water level of the pool on the outside of the bucket, on the pool wall, or skimmer face plate.

Operate the pool for 24 hours as it had been operated when a leak was first suspected.

After 24 hours, compare the two levels. If the pool water (outside mark) goes down more than the inside water level, there is probably a leak.

This may indicate a pressure-side return leak.

With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the pressure side is under pressure.

This can open up small drips into spraying gushers.

Check the waste or backwash line for water consistently running.

One inch of your pool water can equal 500 gallons.

This usually indicates a suction-side leak.

With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum.

Air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking voids.

You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines, or air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank.

Use tape or a pencil to mark water levels.

Is the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed o-ring?

This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing, but turns a suspicious eye on the shell of the pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl.

Look closely at the tile line and look real closely inside of the skimmer(s).

The most common leak we fix is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool.

• This is easily fixed with some pool putty.
• If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with your pump shut off and water still.
• See if the dye is sucked into the crack.

Under water lights can and do leak as well.

• Especially in the conduit that runs from the light niche to the junction box.
• Filling the opening of the conduit in the back of the light niche with putty, silicone, or caulk is a way to fix this problem.

Look closely at the filter, pump, heater, and valves.

Check the ground for moisture.

Turn the pump on and off looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off.

In most cases, it is recommended to have the pool vacuumed spotless prior to your detection.

Leaks as large as 1″ in diameter have been missed until the dirt covering the leak was vacuumed or brushed away.

Make sure the water is clean and not green.
If it is green, the water could contain molds, fungus, larvae, and other contaminants that could make you sick, besides making it almost impossible to test.